Sounds lovely, right? Well, the reason it was a crazy goose chase was that I knew for a fact that the Priory would be closed to visitors (for the winter season) and there was a good chance that all the guest houses would be as well. If we hunted one up for too long, we could get stuck on the island for 6 hours until the tide went back out with a place to stay. If the guest houses weren't open, chances are that the pubs and cafes wouldn't be either. And, we don't have a phone or any reliable internet access away from whatever hotel we are staying in.
However, we went. Why not? This trip is for adventures, and this island certainly qualified. It turned out BEAUTIFULLY.
We drove up from Penrick mostly in the rain, but not a hard rain. Seeing the causeway was even neater than we thought. We drove out to the island at nearly dark and marveled at the escape towers out on the sand, at the grasses and seaweed that lives both in dry and wet land (depending on the tide), and at the small part of the island itself that floods twice a day. It was pouring rain, but we managed to find out that the entire island closes down after Christmas until April. No hotels, no restaurants, no priory, no nothing but amazing views. We were expecting that there would be barriers preventing cars from entering the causeway at the high tide times, but all there was was a sign with tide times and a picture of a submerged car as a warning to follow them.
We drove off the island at dark, just as the tides were about to come back in and cut it off from the mainland. Luckily, we found a hotel one mile from the causeway with a restaurant and pub attached, and the rate was very reasonable because apparently we are the only people crazy enough to come to Holy Island in the winter.
We weren't ready to eat, so we drove into Scotland. Just to the tip of it, just to say we did. Scotland looked much like the part of England that was 5 feet away.
We had dinner in the pub, including a few pints of cider for Aaron and way too much wine for me, read "The Rime of the Ancient Mariner" until we were sleepy, and konked out early.
We got up early to go to the causeway at sunrise. We timed it so there would be light and the water would still be out over the road. We were able to walk out onto the road as far as the water and watch it recede in front of us. We saw an animal poke its head up above the water again and again, swimming in a sleek graceful way across the water. We couldn't decide what it was at first--too graceful for a turtle, too big for snake. We saw later that this part of the North Sea has a huge seal colony, and it must have been a seal! There were also millions of birds, flying against the orange sunrise and purple clouds. It was amazingly beautiful and one of the highlights of our trip.
We had breakfast after and headed south along a coastal highway, back toward Newcastle where we had to return our rental car. The ocean was stunning! I had never seen an ocean that didn't meet the land at a beach, and we saw cliffs dropping away into the waves, beaches, and fields full of cows sloping down to the water.
We drove right up to a beautiful castle in Bamburgh (picture); it was closed for the season, but I walked down along a path that ran at the bottom of the walls where they were built right out of the stone. From the top of the hill, we could look out over the North Sea to the Farne Islands, tiny islands (only some of which are visible when the tide is high) and see a lighthouse and a tiny chapel.
On the drive south, we also passed through Alnwick, which was my favorite of the northern towns we saw. It had an old beautiful downtown, like Newcastle and Berwick-upon-Tweed, but it was also thriving and clean and busy. I wish we had had time to go to the Gardens, but we did stop and walk on a path through a sheep pasture beside the river Aln. When I say through a sheep pasture, I mean it, too. We went right up beside the flock. We have seen a lot of sheep on this trip, enough to make me cynical about their existence (kind of like armadillos), but I thought it was neat to be so close to them. On the other side of the Aln was Alnwick Castle (our view of the castle), more beautiful, I thought, than Bamburgh Castle, though Aaron disagrees. Alnwick Castle was used in the filming of Harry Potter, and you can see it here in a still from the movie.
If we have a chance to return to Great Britain (probably on a trip to Scotland and Ireland), we would definitely return to the Northumberland Coast. I would love to visit the Holy Island in the summer, when the hiking would be pleasant, and I would like to spend a day or two in Alnwick, exploring the castle, the Abbey, the footpaths around the town, and the lovely city center.
Now, we are on a train headed back to London. It's the crazy train, for sure. So far, here are the nutty people I've seen (while Aaron sleeps, oblivious to the crazy):
- A lady with a dog who starting hysterically shrieking and running down the aisle when she missed her stop, causing the dog to hysterically bark
- A family with possibly the worst behaved children I have ever encountered, even in Walmart, who made me wish to be nearer the barking dog
- A little boy who got himself locked into the bathroom and banged on the door until someone let him out, the only person on the list I felt sorry for
We are spending the night tonight at a hotel near Heathrow (to be away from crazy New Year's Eve partiers), and then tomorrow we are back to our dear Mayflower Hotel near Earl's Court (the site of the beginning of my love of Chicken Balti).We have a few more days in London before we go home on the 4th of January. I will return home, now aged 33, satiated on adventure for a little while, and glad to see Livy again.
